Then tack the washer to the stud/bolt and after completely filling in the washer continue building up the center with tack weldsĪfter the tack welds have been built up slightly in the center of the washer place a nut on top of this welded tit and then weld the center of the nut to that (you can also put small tack welds on three outside corners of the nut if you have problems with the nut wringing off in the last step). If level with the surface or after step one, place a washer the size of the broken stud\bolt on the surface (if its vertical you may have to hold it there with a pair of needle nose or the tip of a screwdriver until you get it tacked to your weld). If it's deep you just do small tack welds on the top of the broken bolt till you get the weld built up out of the hole Ive gotten out bolts any were from 1/4 to as big as 5/8 in diameter and even bolts broken off 1/2 inch deep. If your at all proficient with a mig welder I have a technique that I learned when I was younger and working at an exhaust shop, It amazes everyone Ive ever worked with since then (anyone not afraid of the welder converts to it afterward) and I owe the old-timer that taught it to me countless labor hours over it. I'D WOULD RATHER BE CUMMIN THAN STROKIN ! ! ! ! Just take your time, and dont drill to deep.or you will hit green blood.we also copper coat the new bolt going in(makes it easier next time it breaks),grade 5 bolts I've had decent luck with a left handed drill bit.Įither a left handed drill bit or a EZ OUT. My only options are to get lucky with drilling and an extractor or pulling the head and sending it to a machine shop. The bolt is broken off inside the hole, so there is no getting a stud remover on it. ![]() ![]() What kind of bolt extractor have you had success with? I am getting ready to work on a 454 with a broken exhaust manifold bolt.
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